Head to Midtown West to Hit Some of NYC’s Best New Highlights

As part of my new school year’s resolution to more regularly venture out of my neighborhood, I recently explored New York City’s revitalized Midtown West along the Hudson River. Despite having lived in NYC for more than 17 years, most of my time spent along this waterfront has been in a car, en route to the Lincoln Tunnel. Last week, however, a doctor’s appointment in midtown inspired me to tack on a fun outing while in the area. I set off on foot, determined to discover this delightful section of town up close. 

Hudson River Park

I began my day perched on a bench just south of the Intrepid Museum and gazed over the inlet, sectioned off for kayaking so that paddlers aren't capsized by approaching cruise ships. I took in the huge aircraft carrier, amazed as always by its sheer size and imposing stature, docked right here in the Big Apple.

The early hour made the setting quite serene. A pair of police horses added some ambience as they walked slowly along the bike path. I set off on a brisk walk southward along a lovely pedestrian parkway, my heart pumping in the fresh fall morning air. Food trucks readied their fare for hungry tourists perusing the impeccably well-maintained waterfront park. The “Eat Lobster on a Boat” sign posted on a docked vessel made my day.

I crossed the West Side Highway at 34th Street, unknowingly sneaking up on the Javits Center. Clear skylights reflected the morning sun and offered a glimpse into the atrium of the convention center. I recalled the blisteringly cold day a couple years ago when my daughters and I rushed from the subway into the shelter of the Javits Center for a bustling Meet the Breeds dog show. Today, a weekday, however, seemed rather deserted. The few pedestrians I did spot made their way toward a sweeping ramp that turned out to be the beginning of the High Line. I continued east along 34th Street so I could truly get my bearings at Hudson Yards before venturing onto the High Line itself. 

Hudson Yards

I grabbed a bench in the park surrounding the subway station to orient myself. Google Maps placed me in a green area less than a block from the Vessel, and yet I couldn’t see the giant, sculpture-like structure due to the surrounding trees. I set off to scope out the territory, determined to uncover what all the Hudson Yards hype was about.

I rounded the corner and dodged a crowd of commuters and selfie-taking tourists emerging from the subway escalators. Freeing myself from the tangle of pedestrians, I quickly spotted the unique tower, sunlight gleaming off the copper-colored paneling. Couples stood underneath, snapping photos of their reflections. A handful of workers wrapped Christmas lights around nearby tree trunks while others scaled the off-limits heights of the Vessel, adding lights to the railings along striking zig zag staircases.

The Vessel and its surrounding buildings sit atop an old rail yard, giving Hudson Yards a unique claim to fame. Facing the Hudson River, I glimpsed train cars parked a level below. A colossal screen, lit up with advertisements for local businesses, overshadowed the plaza, where friends mingled and a bride and groom posed for wedding photos. I opted to sit down at one of the small round tables to read my murder mystery for a bit. After all, someone went to great lengths to set up this inviting seating area! A stunning mural of women’s faces and florals painted in purples and blues wrapped around the southwest edge of the plaza–a lovely surprise as I rounded the corner at 11th Avenue.

I soon realized the building with a handful of floors to the east of the Vessel was the upscale shopping mall I had heard was built into Hudson Yards. Inside, I enjoyed window shopping for watches and bags. A creative optical illusion formed the Louis Vuitton window display. From straight on, you could see right into the shop through vertical slats. From a side angle, however, Louis Vuitton’s signature criss-crossing pattern emerged from the rippling front edge of the slats. Pretty cool.

My eyes feasted on the delicacies in a gourmet chocolate shop before I took the escalator down to street level in search of Mercado Little Spain, where I hoped to relive the flavors of my recent trip to Barcelona. I headed west, where I was delighted to see the market and yet disappointed to find it closed for a private event. Add it to the list of reasons to return! I climbed the stairs just outside Mercado to discover that the High Line also has an expansive entrance level with the southern edge of the Vessel plaza. It takes getting a bit turned around in an initial exploration to discover all the shortcuts for round two!

The High Line

I emerged onto the sunny thoroughfare of the High Line, and I was quite taken aback as a slow, incessant tide of tourists swept me along the raised walkway. It took a minute to find my stride as I could not walk at my normal New Yorker speed but also didn’t want to get trampled as I paused to snap photos of the thoughtful landscaping, sculptures, and views.

The High Line was built to repurpose some old, elevated railway tracks. The rails are now filled in with concrete in places to form a walking path, and in other sections various trees, flowers, and grasses grow in accordance with the season. The fascinating juxtaposition between nature and industry enthralled me. Plants billowed in the wind and slowly morphed their way through life cycles amidst the ancient metal rails, frozen in space and time. I marveled at the unique combination of urban and garden elements, detached from the street-level grime just enough to provide a bit of a natural respite. The flower beds looked fantastic in alternating pockets of shade and sun. There’s something to be said for a bit of greenery to break up the concrete jungle. 

Statues appeared periodically along the path, affording an opportunity to pause and pair some art with people watching. A curtsying ballerina held a bouquet, herself entirely pale compared to the red roses that jumped out in their brilliance. A grotesque sculpture featured what looked like dripping skulls. Some whimsical lollipop-like sculptures next to a bright mural made me smile; I sat on a cascade of stairs across the way to soak up the joy. 

The High Line threads its way amazingly close to various buildings. Someone’s terrace couch sat nearly within reach. An apartment building designed its windows to create protruding glass capsules overlooking the High Line. Imagine living right there! I guess you'd never be lost for an interesting view as the hustle and bustle of the city passed you by.

I took advantage of the periodic benches and turnouts where I could step aside to enjoy the view. After passing a chatty couple relaxing on some wooden patio furniture along the path, I doubled back and claimed a chaise lounge of my own. I pulled out my book and uncovered a few additional layers of the murder mystery. 

Looking up, I was pleasantly surprised to spot Little Island on the horizon. I had read about this man-made island in the Hudson but had yet to set eyes on it personally. I quickly calculated that I would have just enough time for a short visit before heading back uptown for school pickup. What fun to have the freedom of an evolving itinerary! 

Taking a peek at the High Line map, I realized how close I had traveled to the southern tip of the walkway. Knowing I would later regret it if I didn't complete the journey, I pressed on through a tunnel-like stretch where the rail line closely skirted a building. I soon recognized it as a part of the initial section of the High Line I had walked when it first opened in 2009. 

I appreciated the clean and well-stocked bathrooms (conveniently situated at the High Line headquarters at the end of the walkway) before I made my way down the steps to Gansevoort Street. I caught sight of the Whitney Museum to my right, making a mental note to return this winter to catch the Edges of Ailey exhibit. A pair of elegant, life-size elephants made of dried lantana plants made me pause on the side of the road. I snapped a photo to show my daughter later (elephants are her favorite!) to give her a glimpse into how I spent the school day.

Little Island

As I crossed over West Street, back to Hudson River Park, Gansevoort Peninsula drew me in at once with its sandy beach area. Who knew there was a beach in midtown–and a clean one at that?! Pairs of Adirondack chairs, nestled under large blue beach umbrellas, beckoned me. Seeing as I didn't want to get all sandy, I opted for a chair perched upon a wheelchair-accessible wooden platform. Several New Yorkers enjoyed their morning coffee along with the spectacular view of the New Jersey and New York City skylines.

I strolled north and snagged a great view of Little Island emerging out of the Hudson. On the approach, I scanned a QR Code for an audio tour about the landscape design of the island and spent 45 lovely minutes learning about the very intentionally chosen elements. From the central lawn area, there was no sign of the NYC metropolis because greenery obscured any glimpse of buildings. As I climbed each of the three hills, however, breathtaking views of the city and surrounding waterway claimed my line of sight.

I started on the hill closest to the city, where I wound my way up and down, greeted by pollinators galore buzzing amidst cornflowers and children interacting with spinning sculptures. Then, I continued on to the woodlands of the southwest hill. The designer called for mature trees to be transported to the island (rather than planting saplings) in order to create an atmosphere of stability and shade. Since established trees require huge amounts of heavy soil, planners solved the puzzle to strategically disperse the weight amongst the pillars that plunge into the riverbed.

Next, I climbed the northwest hill. Plants such as pine trees that would be at home in Maine’s Acadia National Park adorn this windy peak. I took in the quaint amphitheater on my descent and imagined how pleasant it would be to attend a performance here as the sun set over the Hudson. I sat briefly in the seating area of the plaza, basking in the whole scene and checking my location to see whether I could justify a jaunt through Chelsea Market on my way to the subway. What luck–the market sat a mere two blocks from the island exit nearest me. How could I resist popping into an iconic destination I hadn't explored in years?

Chelsea Market

I took the diagonal northeast through 14th Street Park and paused at the corner to snap a photo of Chelsea Market. Suddenly, I realized that–directly behind the market sign–I could see the tunnel I had walked through earlier that day on the High Line. I put two and two together to see that the building the High Line skirts so closely is, in fact, Chelsea Market. Who knew? Not me. How fun to make connections! 

Lovely fall decorations and lights decked the main promenade through the market. Pumpkins and gourds and corn stocks–oh my! Perfect for the hordes posting to Instagram. Instead of the food stalls and vendors I had anticipated, I found a plethora of festive restaurants. The tacos smelled tempting, but the food hall was too packed to just grab a taste of something and go. As I hustled past beautiful brownstones on my way to the subway at 8th Avenue, I made a mental note to return with time for a full meal.

Before I knew it, I was zooming my way uptown with just enough time to grab the park bag from home and head to school pickup. What a day! It had been a great outing exploring the city that I love to call home–a city just waiting to reveal its many delights to those willing to take a moment out of their regular life to look.